Planting Trees and Shrubs Planting: Dig a hole 3 times wider than the root ball or pot size. Sides should slope to the center. The depth of the hole is determined by measuring the distance from the trunk flare to their bottom of the root ball. To find the trunk flare, gently dig down along the stem to the point where roots first spread out from the trunk. For ball and burlapped (B&B) trees and shrubs this is often several inches below the surface. Dig the hole slightly shallower so the crown of the plant is elevated 1-2” and water will run away from the center. Container grown plants generally can be planted to the depth of the soil in the pot, however, there may be a concentration of roots at the bottom or sides of the pot that will need to be cut. In order to encourage the roots to grow out into the newly prepared soil, it helps to take a knife, pruning shears or hand cultivator and loosen and/or cut the encircling roots. Do not dig or loosen the soil deeper than is necessary, the plant should have a firm base to sit on so it does not settle. Place the plant in the center of the hole and remove soil from above the root flare. As much as possible, also remove burlap, rope and metal cages, but do not disturb the root ball to the point that it breaks up. Filling: Experts today recommend backfilling with the soil dug from the planting hole. However, if the soil is sandy, heavy clay, or poor quality then he addition of soil amendments such as compost, good topsoil or commercially available soil mixes should help the plant to grow into the new location. Back fill around the root ball with the soil mixture and lightly tamp to eliminate air pockets. Water the plant well, filling the planting hole to the rim and letting it drain. This process will also help settle the soil and you will likely need to add soil to bring it back to level. We recommend creating a saucer (see sketch) with a 2-3” dam or lip at the edge of the planting area. This retains water and allows for economical and efficient watering. On a sloped location this would be necessary to insure the new plants retain water, preventing runoff. Watering: After planting your shrub or tree, the aim of your watering practices should be to keep the soil evenly moist. Sprinkler systems and rainfall should not be expected to meet this need. Hand watering, drip irrigation, or soaker hoses are required! One should water when soil begins to lightly dry out. Check several inches down to see how moist the soil is (not the mulch) before watering. Do not water on a schedule but according to the plant’s needs. Weather, temperature, location, soil conditions amount of sun and variety of plant will be controlling factors. For example: a plant in a sunny location in well drained soil will need more water than one in a cool, moist shady spot. A modest (2-4”) layer of mulch on top of the disturbed soil cuts down on evaporation and lowers soil temperatures so it should reduce watering frequency. Be careful to keep mulches from touching or covering the crown or trunk of the plant, this could cause disease. Remember to check to make sure the water is getting into the soil and the mulch is not acting as a barrier. Staking: Large size trees and those with thin trunks may benefit from being staked. A small tree can be easily supported with a single sturdy stake. Make sure the stake is into solid ground and not just in the root ball. Larger specimens will likely need support from 2 or 3 directions. Check with our experts for guidelines. There are kits available for staking. It is important to make sure any guying material does not injure the bark or restrict future growth of the plant. Most staking should be unnecessary after a growing season. * Diagram adapted from UMass Extension's "Planting and Maintaining Trees and Shrubs"